WNY Models

Larisa · by **Larisa** on June 16th, 2004, 9:19 am

OK, I need to get myself some lighting.... realizing this is quite an investment (a hundred bucks + that I don't have...) I was wondering if you good people could help me out

I've always eyed people's equipment on shoots, but when it comes down to getting it myself....

I just need some general lighting, and I am getting myself a reflector... should I just get a light stand with a alumunum reflector, or an umbrella? What kind of bulbs are best? Anything as close to natural lighting I would suppose...?

At henrys the have a sale on a

"ETG LAMP 150W"

what the heck?

Thanks

Larisa

MarkK · by **MarkK** on June 16th, 2004, 9:38 am

Are we talking flash or continuous light? What effects are you looking to achieve? Digital or film? If it's film will you be using the light for black and white or color images or both? If it's film for color images and continuous light will be used then a filter for your lens imay also be needed. Do you have a good, sturdy tripod, btw? These are jut a few questions, many more could be asked. The more specific you are, the better choices you will make.

Welcome to the wonderful world of photography where everything is more then you can afford at the time, by the way ;-)

Larisa · by **Larisa** on June 16th, 2004, 9:42 am

continuous light... digital... colour images (my rebel does not allow me to have b&w pics... thank god for photoshop!) Tripod - check.

MarkK · by **MarkK** on June 16th, 2004, 9:59 am

Ahh digital...does your Rebal have auto white as well as manual white balance? If it does then it really doesnt matter what you use as a light source as the camera can make the adjustment to get rid of the color cast.

As for the size...well, in this case, it really does matter. A small, undiffused light source makes for a hard contrasty light. A bigger light source means softer light. Seeing as most of your work that I've seen of yours is about 1 or 2 models at least 1/2 body shots or more then 150 watts might not be enough with light fade, exposure times, etc. I have 750 and 1000 watt Lowel DP's w/umbrellas, snoots and barndoors, btw.

As for umbrella or reflecter, are we talking the bowel reflector or a stand alone to place opposite of the model? I'd buy the umbrella for a diffuser (makes a light source bigger and evens out the contrast) and then make my own aluminum reflecter. Foam core and foil, thats all you need to make one for the studio.

Hope this helps and others chip in. Anyone know of the canadian version of B+H and all the other major distributers?

Steve · by **Steve** on June 17th, 2004, 8:27 am

Ok ... Are you planning for this light source to be the only light on a model, or do you hope to mix it with the ambient light or outdoor light? If it is the only light, then any bright bulb (tungsten) would work, as long as you have some way to diffuse it in order to make it softer. Now, if you plan on mixing it with daylight, then a regular bulb won't really work unless you start getting into filters. This is beacuse tungsten bulbs are much warmer than daylight, so if you set your camera for the warm light, then the daylight would be Very blue.

I would actually recomend you go with flash / strobe and learn how that works. It give you much more power. The unfortunate fact is that photography, no matter how you look at it .. is expensive ... So start charging clients more and save up some money for gear. Good luck !

Steve

Larisa · by **Larisa** on June 18th, 2004, 11:11 pm

Turns out I can't use anything that needs a SYNC cord... Damn Digital Rebel! Bah. I think I'm just going to stick with the set of hot lights, I cannot afford anything else at the momment. I'm dropping by the store tomorrow so I'll be talking to someone about getting a reasonable price for the lighting I need.

I think what I'm going to end up doing is getting a flash for my camera, and then for indoor shots just grab as many lights in the house I can find and just hope I don't blow a fuse

Thanks for all your help!

Larisa

RayS · by **RayS** on June 19th, 2004, 6:23 am

Larisa,
The Rebel will take a sync cord even if it does not have a PC outlet. The way you do that is buy the small adaptor that fits on your hot shoe that has a PC connection. As far as working with strobes though I have found that a remote triggering system like the Wein infared system works the best as it connects directly to the hot shoe and a receiver goes on your strobe which means you no longer need a sync cord between the camera and the strobe. You are free to move anywhere you want and not have to worry about the sync cord.
As far as lights everyones needs are different but if you are working with people and not still life subjects and want to create greater depth of field by using a smaller lens opening or freeze action a strobe system is the way to go. Plus you need not worry about melting a models makeup. You also really don't need to worry about filters when mixing the strobes with daylight under most circumstances. I know strobes are more expensive but buy one strobe at a time. I think a lot of times you can be suprised by what one light can do.
If you head to the US side of the border in the near future I think I still have a couple of Smith Victor hot lights that I used a number of years ago for product catalog work that I would be willing to lend you until you sort out what you are actually want or build up some cash to buy strobes or another type lighting system.
Another thing that I might recommend to you is a video tape by Dean Collins called 3 Dimensional Contrast put out for Chimera that explains lighting and how it works. This may influence your final decision on what you will need as far as lighting to accomplish what you want. The tape has been out for a while if you have trouble finding it let me know as I know of an outlet that still handles it.
Hope that this helps a little.
RayS OMP link http://www.onemodelplace.com/photograph ... P_ID=21271

KHatch · by **KHatch** on June 20th, 2004, 8:49 am

What Ray said.

Also, if you use a pc cord, get a Wein SafeSync so you don't fry your camera with the voltage from the lights. I think Canons have a 6 volt limit, but I could be mistaken.

Either way, you're going to have to spend some cash. In essence, any flash that you can fire off camera will work. Even an old, used Vivitar 285. You can make your own modifiers pretty cheaply (a la Dean Collins' Tinker Tubes) with pvc pipe and rip stop nylon. If you want, you can download the pdf of Dean's book HERE. Download the "tt-book.pdf" file.

Max · by **Max** on June 20th, 2004, 9:06 am

Keith, great book! I already actually built some of those units without ever seeing the book... very cool! Thanks for sharing!!

MarkK · by **MarkK** on June 20th, 2004, 9:57 am

Hey Kieth;

A while ago (like the last time this site was up) you posted a tutorial on how to remove skin flaws, etc from a forehead and give it a more smooth appearence. I've got PS CS now and I can't find anything like it in the tutorials...any chance of re-posting it?

Here's my latest attempt to capture the RayS hip and twist pose with new color correction and blemish removel techniques a la' Scott Kelly's Photoshop CS Book for Digital Photographers.

P.S. Yes, I know the shirt is blue, that was a deliberate decision on my part.

RayS · by **RayS** on June 20th, 2004, 12:24 pm

Keith,
Been using the Wein right out of the box on everything from my old F1 bodies to all of my EOS models with no problems. But if you wanted to be extra cautious then the SafeSync might be the right choice. Thanks for sending Larisa the blue print for the Dean Collins panels but I was more interested in having her review the 3 Dimensional Contrast tape by Dean Collins as it explains how light works and it might aid her in making a decision on which lights she wants. As I said the tape may point out that you can do a lot with one light and start off without drawing everything out from your bank account.

Mark here's another one. The model is Renai
OMP link : http://www.onemodelplace.com/member.cfm?ID=101781

RayS OMP member 21271

KHatch · by **KHatch** on June 20th, 2004, 6:16 pm

RayS wrote:Keith,
Been using the Wein right out of the box on everything from my old F1 bodies to all of my EOS models with no problems. But if you wanted to be extra cautious then the SafeSync might be the right choice.

I mentioned the safesync if she must use a pc cord. I use the Wein remote system too.

RayS · by **RayS** on June 20th, 2004, 6:31 pm

Keith,
Don't know which units might present a camera problem with a Canon but I have plugged directly to the strobes with a sync cord using both Bowen, and Paul Bluff lights without ever having a problem. I am sure along the way that I have used a few other manufacture's lights. It might not be a bad idea, however, to check with canon at 1-800-OKCanon or read the camera manual to find out if they have any recomendations. I know in the manual for the Canon 10D it does not mention anything about voltage but does say that some larger studio flashes have a polarity opposite to the Canon's PC terminal and will not fire. But a conversion cord is available to change the polarity. It does mention not using a high voltage flash on the hotshoe however as it will not fire.
RayS

grsphoto · by **grsphoto** on June 20th, 2004, 10:25 pm

The voltage problems caused by older flash systems doesn't show up the first time you use the flash... it is usually about the 73rd time... and then it is a expensive repair (from experience)

I also saw someplace there is a class action against the Wein guard... not sure what that is about.

grs

Larisa · by **Larisa** on June 22nd, 2004, 11:45 pm

sorry i haven't responded in a while... just taking all this in

WNY Models

Lighting. my confusion is growing... - I need some "super" advice to defeat it!

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